Leaving Ruhija we had a chance to bid farewell to the gorillas once more as we came across them on the roadside exiting the park. It was the same family group we had seen the day before. A young male was crossing the road and the Silver back, mother and baby were feeding just off the road. We had been listening to a South African musician called Lucky Dube and felt quite lucky ourselves to have a second opportunity to view these amazing creatures.
It was a long day in the van getting to Queen Elizabeth National Park from Bwindi. We saw more local crops including coffee beans drying in the sun and trees loaded with jackfruit. One unique feature for the day came at an unexpected locale, a petrol station washroom. I admit I was initially hesitant to use the facility, given that even in the US gas station washrooms can be dicey. As I entered I noted a small clay colored structure in the corner that had been assembled from bits of mud pushed together. As I was looking at it more closely trying to figure out how the bird who called this home entered, its resident, a swallow came swooping in through the transom window which lacked a glass pane. As it turned out this was the first of a number of surprises we would experience on our trip.
We logged a number of miles across the less rugged terrain before entering the southern end of QENP, the Ishasha sector. The
Ishasha river forms part of the border between Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda. We entered the park and headed northward. The road is rough with many potholes created by the heavy commercial trucks using it to cross to and from DRC for trading. We took a small detour to look for lions in a particularly large acacia tree they are known to frequent but they weren't there. We did see a mixed antelope herd including waterbuk, topi and Ugandan kob farther off the road. Blackie pointed out a large nest in a tree near a slightly marshy area that belonged to the hammerkop, a small brown bird who continues to build and add to its nest year after year. The nest may be occupied by the same adult, or the adult may leave the nest to one of its young. The remainder of the drive was mostly an exploration of flora as we passed from the savannah and along the border of the Maramagambo forest. Finally arriving at our destination, Bush Lodge near Katunguru along the Kazinga channel.
The channel links two natural water bodies Lake Edward and Lake George. Native people are still allowed to fish in the lakes and some fish in the channel as well. We would leave exploring the channel until the following day. After settling in our tent, it was time for an evening game drive. We popped the top on the van and set out to "shoot" our trophies, using only cameras of course.
We were excited as we entered the park hoping to see a lion or an elephant. Blackie talked to one of his friends who is a ranger at the park to check the locations of some of the larger animals. We started out heading towards the kob mating ground where there were also a large herd of buffalo. These animals were content in the location they had chosen to spend the night and did not seem at all bothered by our presence. We were taking photos through the pop top when Blackie started to drive away saying the buffalo would stay here, there was something better to see. We followed the dirt track around a few curves before coming to a stop facing a large cactus tree on the far side of a broad field. When we looked closely, there was a tan spot in the crook of the tree. A telephoto picture confirmed our hopes, it was a lion and she was looking right at us! We watched with excitement as she shifted position and eventually jumped down from the tree. She was much larger than she looked in the tree! She strolled across the field allowing a few more photos before lying down and disappearing in the grass. Both Taylor and I were thrilled to have seen this magnificent feline and considered ourselves very fortunate. Little did we know Mother Nature had another amazing trick up her sleeve. We decided to leave the lion in the grass and proceeded down the track and around the corner to find ourselves blocked by another vehicle. As we looked to the left we could hardly believe our eyes when we saw why they had stopped. There in the field less than 100 yards away was another lioness. She was seated in the grass and when she stood to walk two more small sets of ears appeared just behind her. We could hardly contain our excitement as she and her cubs meandered out into an open area and sprawled on the ground rolling and pushing each other. KITTENS!! We were seeing kittens!! Technically cubs but they looked so much like overgrown house cats we couldn't help but whisper "kittens!" excitedly to each other. We could hardly believe our eyes when the lioness climbed into the tree and the two cubs became four as they followed their mother into the tree. The other two cubs must have been playing or hiding on the other side of the tree when we arrived. They were adorable as they positioned themselves in the branches with legs splayed on either side. Just when we thought we had reached the limit on adorable, the cub closest to us fell asleep with his tongue sticking out and his head against the branch pushing the adorable factor into overdrive.
Once they seemed settled in for the night, we reluctantly drove back to the buffalo who were bedded down where we had left them. We got a few more photos of the group then continued on our way out of the park as it was just beginning to get dark. Taylor and I were chatting and laughing as we reviewed the photos of the lion cubs when suddenly Blackie was shushing us. We quieted down as he quickly pulled forward and as if by magic, a leopard appeared beside us. It stood perfectly still just long enough to get a photo before it shot off into the bush in search of its dinner.
It was a long day in the van getting to Queen Elizabeth National Park from Bwindi. We saw more local crops including coffee beans drying in the sun and trees loaded with jackfruit. One unique feature for the day came at an unexpected locale, a petrol station washroom. I admit I was initially hesitant to use the facility, given that even in the US gas station washrooms can be dicey. As I entered I noted a small clay colored structure in the corner that had been assembled from bits of mud pushed together. As I was looking at it more closely trying to figure out how the bird who called this home entered, its resident, a swallow came swooping in through the transom window which lacked a glass pane. As it turned out this was the first of a number of surprises we would experience on our trip.
We logged a number of miles across the less rugged terrain before entering the southern end of QENP, the Ishasha sector. The
Ishasha river forms part of the border between Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda. We entered the park and headed northward. The road is rough with many potholes created by the heavy commercial trucks using it to cross to and from DRC for trading. We took a small detour to look for lions in a particularly large acacia tree they are known to frequent but they weren't there. We did see a mixed antelope herd including waterbuk, topi and Ugandan kob farther off the road. Blackie pointed out a large nest in a tree near a slightly marshy area that belonged to the hammerkop, a small brown bird who continues to build and add to its nest year after year. The nest may be occupied by the same adult, or the adult may leave the nest to one of its young. The remainder of the drive was mostly an exploration of flora as we passed from the savannah and along the border of the Maramagambo forest. Finally arriving at our destination, Bush Lodge near Katunguru along the Kazinga channel.
The channel links two natural water bodies Lake Edward and Lake George. Native people are still allowed to fish in the lakes and some fish in the channel as well. We would leave exploring the channel until the following day. After settling in our tent, it was time for an evening game drive. We popped the top on the van and set out to "shoot" our trophies, using only cameras of course.
We were excited as we entered the park hoping to see a lion or an elephant. Blackie talked to one of his friends who is a ranger at the park to check the locations of some of the larger animals. We started out heading towards the kob mating ground where there were also a large herd of buffalo. These animals were content in the location they had chosen to spend the night and did not seem at all bothered by our presence. We were taking photos through the pop top when Blackie started to drive away saying the buffalo would stay here, there was something better to see. We followed the dirt track around a few curves before coming to a stop facing a large cactus tree on the far side of a broad field. When we looked closely, there was a tan spot in the crook of the tree. A telephoto picture confirmed our hopes, it was a lion and she was looking right at us! We watched with excitement as she shifted position and eventually jumped down from the tree. She was much larger than she looked in the tree! She strolled across the field allowing a few more photos before lying down and disappearing in the grass. Both Taylor and I were thrilled to have seen this magnificent feline and considered ourselves very fortunate. Little did we know Mother Nature had another amazing trick up her sleeve. We decided to leave the lion in the grass and proceeded down the track and around the corner to find ourselves blocked by another vehicle. As we looked to the left we could hardly believe our eyes when we saw why they had stopped. There in the field less than 100 yards away was another lioness. She was seated in the grass and when she stood to walk two more small sets of ears appeared just behind her. We could hardly contain our excitement as she and her cubs meandered out into an open area and sprawled on the ground rolling and pushing each other. KITTENS!! We were seeing kittens!! Technically cubs but they looked so much like overgrown house cats we couldn't help but whisper "kittens!" excitedly to each other. We could hardly believe our eyes when the lioness climbed into the tree and the two cubs became four as they followed their mother into the tree. The other two cubs must have been playing or hiding on the other side of the tree when we arrived. They were adorable as they positioned themselves in the branches with legs splayed on either side. Just when we thought we had reached the limit on adorable, the cub closest to us fell asleep with his tongue sticking out and his head against the branch pushing the adorable factor into overdrive.
Once they seemed settled in for the night, we reluctantly drove back to the buffalo who were bedded down where we had left them. We got a few more photos of the group then continued on our way out of the park as it was just beginning to get dark. Taylor and I were chatting and laughing as we reviewed the photos of the lion cubs when suddenly Blackie was shushing us. We quieted down as he quickly pulled forward and as if by magic, a leopard appeared beside us. It stood perfectly still just long enough to get a photo before it shot off into the bush in search of its dinner.
We were truly amazed at this incredibly lucky experience. To see gorillas in the morning and a leopard in the evening on the same day seemed like a dream. We decided Blackie should add to his name and be known as Lucky Blackie. We felt incredibly fortunate to have him as our guide.
Exiting the park to the main road we thought we had seen all we could or would see for a single day but there was one last surprise. Just about a quarter mile from the park entrance a large group of elephants including several babies, decided to cross the road. We were able to pull over and watch them as they passed from one side to the other completely stopping traffic in both directions! We counted at least twelve in the group, which is eleven more than I saw on my last trip to Uganda.
We returned to Bush Lodge and tried to sleep so we could be up early the next morning for another game drive. We couldn't imagine a day like that happening twice. Would our luck continue? Day two in QENP coming up.
Exiting the park to the main road we thought we had seen all we could or would see for a single day but there was one last surprise. Just about a quarter mile from the park entrance a large group of elephants including several babies, decided to cross the road. We were able to pull over and watch them as they passed from one side to the other completely stopping traffic in both directions! We counted at least twelve in the group, which is eleven more than I saw on my last trip to Uganda.
We returned to Bush Lodge and tried to sleep so we could be up early the next morning for another game drive. We couldn't imagine a day like that happening twice. Would our luck continue? Day two in QENP coming up.
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